ORA PRO POPULO (Pray For The People) read the sign under the painting of the Virgin Mary which hung on the medieval stone city wall protecting the good people of Cadiz City from all evils in the 16th century. Eventually the name evolved to the modern day name of Barrio Populo.
The higher part of the Barrio looks out over the Atlantic Ocean and the lower
part over Plaza San Juan de Dios and the modern Port. In the 14th century there was no pink Portugese marble plaza with its palm trees where the locals and tourists sit and enjoy the sun, no Townhall where the mayoress goes about her daily business and no bustling tapas bars where the days news is rapidly disseminated, considered and commented upon. The whole area of the plaza was submerged under the sea and people would go tuna fishing where the white wood benches now sit.
At the top of Plaza San Juan de Dios sits the Towhall with its belltower and beautiful first floor balcony. The balcony is now used by newly married couples for their wedding photographs with the backdrop of the Plaza and the Port of Cadiz in the distance. To the left of the Townhall lies the church of San Juan de Dios with its plaque to commemorate Columbus´s second voyage to America which set off from the port of Cadiz. Joined to the church is the Hospital de la Misericordia (Hospital of Mercy)with its magnificent internal patio specially designed to run the rain water off into vast underground cisterns for use in the hospital.
Walk a bit further up the street and you will see on your right a series of ancient arches. Enter by the Arco de los Blancos (Archway of the White family). Follow Calle Real (Street of the Kings) now called Meson Nuevo after the 17th century inn which was opened here to compete with the very popular Montesino Inn in Calle Pelota. At the junction with Calle San Antonio Abad stop for a minute and see if you can hear the ghost of Concha “the gypsy” singing. She owned a shop in this street selling sweets and chocolat. She would often sit outside her shop and enjoy the view the New Cathedral at the end of the street.
Take five minutes to soak up the atmosphere of the Roman Theatre which has been painstakingly excavated. Consider the fact that what you can now see is probably only one third of the total structure. In its hayday it seated 8,000 people. It was the handy work of Lucio Cornelio Balbo a well known Cadiz based Roman.
On leaving Callejon del Duende (Ghost Alley) which sounds like it came out of a Harry Potter film you will see the house of the Admiral. This incredible property sits in Plaza de San Martin with its massive columns of Genoese marble and its huge American mahogany doors. The pillars support a large bacony with balustrading and two corkscrew pillars soar up to meet the coat of arms above the french windows. The coat of arms is for Admiral Barrios Soto, who was married to Petronila a descent of the illustrious Guzman family. This stunning edifice was once the meeting place for the Corrillo del Populo the (Populo Clique) they would gather and sit and talk and drink late into the night reminiscing about the past of the beautiful Barrio Populo.
Only a short stroll will take you to the old cathedral sitting in Plaza Fray Feliz (the Square of Brother Felix) a Capuchin brother and Bishop much loved by his congregation.
About now you will be needing a coffee and cake so head back to Plaza San Juan de Dios, sit yourself down in one of the outdoor cafes and rest secure in the knowledge that you are sitting in the oldest square in Cadiz where poets, dignitaries and the common people have sat for many centuries. Enjoy Cadiz it is a magical City.